MaxMara
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, September 22, 2011
By Tim Blanks
There was a time when MaxMara was a label with a wide reach. No one is about to say that "focus" is a dirty word, but everything is now so tightly iris-ed in on one set of proposals that you could be forgiven for thinking that the baby's been thrown out with the bathwater.Today's silhouette was athletic, punishingly lean, made even more so by the ribbed capris that were the collection's signal piece. Three was the magic number: three bands of color—tan, white, aqua—and three body zones—bodice, midriff, below the waist. Sometimes the bands were joined tone on tone for a sleek silhouette. Other times, they were split and reattached by Frankenstein stapling. It was a strange mash-up of high tech and mad science, and it wasn't necessarily improved by the addition of perforated suede and an old gold Lurex. The final piece—a sinuous, strapless Lurex jumpsuit topped by a rigid wrap of stapled leather—captured the peculiarly dual nature of the collection.
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Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Farah Angsana Fashion East Fashion Fringe Felder Felder Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesc by Frank Tell Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gabrielle Greiss Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Giulietta Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Kanye West Karen Walker Kelly Wearstler Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan NAHM Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 Norma Kamali -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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