There was a time when MaxMara was a label with a wide reach. No one is about to say that "focus" is a dirty word, but everything is now so tightly iris-ed in on one set of proposals that you could be forgiven for thinking that the baby's been thrown out with the bathwater.

Today's silhouette was athletic, punishingly lean, made even more so by the ribbed capris that were the collection's signal piece. Three was the magic number: three bands of color—tan, white, aqua—and three body zones—bodice, midriff, below the waist. Sometimes the bands were joined tone on tone for a sleek silhouette. Other times, they were split and reattached by Frankenstein stapling. It was a strange mash-up of high tech and mad science, and it wasn't necessarily improved by the addition of perforated suede and an old gold Lurex. The final piece—a sinuous, strapless Lurex jumpsuit topped by a rigid wrap of stapled leather—captured the peculiarly dual nature of the collection.