Smoke seeped from machines along the runway and bubbles and paper cherry blossoms fell from the ceiling at Moncler Gamme Rouge
. That's a lot of competition, even for a collection of couture outerwear, but Giambattista Valli's jackets and coats held up. He divided the collection into three sections. The first featured photoprints of clouds in acid-bright colors made all the more hallucinogenic by the fact that the sheer fabrics were doubled up, giving the images a three-dimensional depth. Some were embellished with dense fringe in the same electric sunset shades. In the second group, the bubble shapes he's been doing for years at the label were made from double layers of organza with fluorescent yellow paillettes trapped inside; they glowed under the black lights. His third idea was to cut rosettes into the fabric of shirts and shifts in what could've been leather or a technical fabric—it was hard to tell for sure. These pieces were the biggest stretch from Moncler's sporty raison d'être, but under the swirling blossoms, they looked like a bit of fun.