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Moschino

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MILAN, September 23, 2011
By Nicole Phelps
Spring's tribal trend has so far focused on Africa, but Rossella Jardini's compass points in the direction of the American Southwest by way of Spain. It's not unfamiliar territory for this brand. Way back when, the label's founder, Franco Moschino, designed a matador outfit that he called Bull Chic. This time around, Jardini gave her embroidered jackets the house's familiar tongue-in-cheek spin with tiny bells that jingled as the models walked down the runway. (A leather Perfecto appliquéd with the slogan "Make Up, Not War" also nodded toward Franco's signature irreverence.) While those jackets and the suede dresses with deep fringe may prove too costume-y for all but the most diehard Moschino fans, other pieces trod more lightly on Jardini's chosen themes. A pair of sexy L.B.D.'s densely embroidered in gold thread had a Latin vibe not unlike the matador looks, but without the musical accompaniment. And as for the collection's Navajo beading, it decorated the waistline or the bodice of otherwise simple, summery frocks.

Sunshine yellow, one of the season's key hues, provided the show's bright pop of color. Jardini used it for a smocked top paired with a long, flower-strewn peasant skirt. A swirling heart pattern on a trio of dresses likewise accentuated the optimistic streak that made this latest Moschino outing as winning as it was.

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