Neil Barrett
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, October 1, 2011
By Nicole Phelps
Neil Barrett's big idea this season was to enlarge traditional patterns—houndstooth, Prince of Wales check, marinière stripes—and to distort them. "Unraveling" is how he described it at his Rue du Mail presentation, but that might be a bit of an overstatement. Barrett is a controlled designer, and bless him for it.Anyone who saw his menswear collection for Spring will recognize the oversize silvery gray houndstooth arranged graphically on a black shift, as if the pattern only "took" in certain places. Herringbone chevrons similarly disintegrated down a pair of fluid trousers, while marinière stripes spilled off a flowy dress with a high slit and built-in shorts.
Fluid, flowy. The words strike fear in the hearts of longtime Barrett fans who live for his rigorous tailoring. It was here, too, in the form of jackets cut from spongy neoprene covered in net. The surprise, though, was how confident the looser and easier stuff looked.
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Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Farah Angsana Fashion East Fashion Fringe Felder Felder Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesc by Frank Tell Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gabrielle Greiss Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Giulietta Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Kanye West Karen Walker Kelly Wearstler Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan NAHM Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 Norma Kamali -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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