Nicole Farhi
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, September 18, 2011
By Maya Singer
Today's Nicole Farhi show started off ho-hum, with a series of soigné summertime looks in white and yellow that wouldn't have seemed out of place in an old Slim Aarons photo. Nice enough—but then things got interesting. Farhi likes to experiment with her textiles, and the first hint that she had a few of those tricks up her sleeve this season appeared in an oversize mesh tank top covered all over with sequins. Then there was the micro mesh, printed in a rich floral pattern and layered over colored fabrics that made the flowers pop. Mesh-faced garments such as a greenish pair of boy-cut trousers and a fuchsia-toned top looked beautiful from afar, and a little blurry and strange up close; the effect wasn't unlike coming upon a pointillist painting by Georges Seurat, and watching it take shape and dissolve again before your eyes as you shift perspective.Farhi said after the show that she was inspired by gardens this time out, and she incorporated the reference via 3-D embellishment and garment construction, as well as through print. A series of all-white looks at the close of the show featured laser-cut leather flowers, while a mod shift in buttercup yellow was appliquéd in plastic blossoms. Elsewhere, she used boning to lend a petal shape to pleated skirts, and gave otherwise simple dresses a sculptural aspect to do the same. The palette here was worthy of note: Alongside a bouquet of painterly floral prints, Farhi deployed tonal combinations of red, pink, blush, and orange that were almost too sweet. What cut the treacle was the counteraction of graphic elements, clean lines, and sporty accents. All in all, Farhi sent out a collection of pretty clothes with a modern tone.
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Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Farah Angsana Fashion East Fashion Fringe Felder Felder Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesc by Frank Tell Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gabrielle Greiss Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Giulietta Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Kanye West Karen Walker Kelly Wearstler Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan NAHM Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 Norma Kamali -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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