Nicholas K
post a comment ›
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, September 8, 2011
By Maya Singer
Nicholas K designer Nicholas Kunz likes to layer. Hers is a tectonic approach to dressing, one that expresses a loose, appealing energy when it works but comes off heavy, chaotic, and over-considered when it doesn't. Today, as is usual at Nicholas K shows, there was a desire to see more of the pieces clean, in order to assess how they do when they stand alone. That said, it's to Kunz's credit that for all the layers, her new collection had a winning lightness.The show kicked off with looks for men and women in tonal whites, and it made for a strong start. For women, the opening asymmetric jacket in lightweight, foil-printed suede was a definite winner, and the loose draped and tiered bias-cut dresses felt timely and struck a pleasing, ethereal-yet-earthy tone. (If Daisy Buchanan ever went camping, that's what she'd have worn.) As the exits continued, the tones darkened, moving into sand-colored clothing, then lodens and grays, and finally into black.
Throughout, Kunz layered looks over cropped mesh leggings—a nice idea—and sent out various lightweight iterations of the trenchcoats and anoraks that are a staple of her brand. She also showed long suede shorts that had a strong, masculine look, and made good use of print, creating several patterns abstracted from photographs of jellyfish and landscapes. For men, Kunz played to her strengths this season, which made for a collection that had lots of retail appeal, but not much in the way of news. One excellent idea, executed in a variety of materials but done best in a crisp cotton poplin, was a kind of cropped track pant, slouchy with an elasticized cuff.
/
/
/
COMMENTS
(0) ADD YOURSwelcome !
logout
you must be logged in to leave a comment sign in | join now
see all designers ›
Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear
#
|
A
|
B
|
C
|
D
|
E
|
F
|
G
|
H
|
I
|
J
|
K
|
L
|
M
|
N
|
O
|
P
|
R
|
S
|
T
|
U
|
V
|
W
|
Y
|
Z
|
-
#
10 Crosby Derek Lam 3.1 Phillip Lim -
A
-
B
-
C
-
D
-
E
Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
F
Farah Angsana Fashion East Fashion Fringe Felder Felder Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesc by Frank Tell Francesco Scognamiglio -
G
Gabriele Colangelo Gabrielle Greiss Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Giulietta Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson Gucci -
H
Haider Ackermann Hakaan Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
I
Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
J
-
K
Kanye West Karen Walker Kelly Wearstler Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
L
L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
M
-
N
Naeem Khan NAHM Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 Norma Kamali -
O
Ohne Titel Opening Ceremony Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
P
-
R
-
S
-
T
-
U
Uniqueness United Bamboo -
V
-
W
Wayne Wendy Nichol Wes Gordon Willow -
Y
Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
Z
Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
ERROR:
