Peter Copping named his Spring collection Zina after the artist Zina de Plagny, who collaborated with Nina Ricci in the 1930's, designing prints. Copping found out about her not in the house's archives but in a World of Interiors article about her daughter, who had just discovered a treasure trove of her mother's work. "I thought to myself that I should call her, but she called me," he explained. "It was fate." Zina's florals had a second life on Copping's runway tonight, cut into a sexy sheath with a scooped-out back, a printed top and matching high-waisted shorts, and most interestingly, a coat that was sandwiched between two layers of gray chiffon quilted with silver thread.

But there was more at play here than pretty florals. Lingerie, a big Spring trend (and one that Copping got an early jump on at Resort), was a central element. It came in the form of bra tops—which he proposed as underpinnings for dressy stretch satin skirtsuits—or as delicate, lacy slipdresses, including one in navy and black that was particularly fetching. More surprising was what the designer described as his "Ricci biker lady" quilted leather jacket and coat. The rest of the collection was firmly situated on the dressed-up side of the spectrum—like so many others this season, Copping cited the golden age of couture as a starting point, and he accessorized with cage hats—so it was smart to add some daywear to the mix. Balloon pants might've been a step too far, but the fisherman sweater rendered as a sweet little zip-up jacket was a welcome addition.