Nina Ricci
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PARIS, September 29, 2011
By Nicole Phelps
Peter Copping named his Spring collection Zina after the artist Zina de Plagny, who collaborated with Nina Ricci in the 1930's, designing prints. Copping found out about her not in the house's archives but in a World of Interiors article about her daughter, who had just discovered a treasure trove of her mother's work. "I thought to myself that I should call her, but she called me," he explained. "It was fate." Zina's florals had a second life on Copping's runway tonight, cut into a sexy sheath with a scooped-out back, a printed top and matching high-waisted shorts, and most interestingly, a coat that was sandwiched between two layers of gray chiffon quilted with silver thread.But there was more at play here than pretty florals. Lingerie, a big Spring trend (and one that Copping got an early jump on at Resort), was a central element. It came in the form of bra tops—which he proposed as underpinnings for dressy stretch satin skirtsuits—or as delicate, lacy slipdresses, including one in navy and black that was particularly fetching. More surprising was what the designer described as his "Ricci biker lady" quilted leather jacket and coat. The rest of the collection was firmly situated on the dressed-up side of the spectrum—like so many others this season, Copping cited the golden age of couture as a starting point, and he accessorized with cage hats—so it was smart to add some daywear to the mix. Balloon pants might've been a step too far, but the fisherman sweater rendered as a sweet little zip-up jacket was a welcome addition.
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Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Farah Angsana Fashion East Fashion Fringe Felder Felder Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesc by Frank Tell Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gabrielle Greiss Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Giulietta Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Kanye West Karen Walker Kelly Wearstler Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan NAHM Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 Norma Kamali -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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