Opening Ceremony
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NEW YORK, October 21, 2011
By Maya Singer
Do Humberto Leon and Carol Lim sleep? Not much, you'd have to assume. As the forces behind Opening Ceremony, the duo are responsible for a multi-brand retail juggernaut, nearly countless collaborations and special projects created under its auspices, and the hugely successful Opening Ceremony brand clothes and accessories. This season, Leon and Lim added the creative directorship of Kenzo to their to-do list. Whatever drug they're taking, we want some.Actually, the drug of choice for Leon and Lim is fun. It's not that hard to sustain a breathtaking work pace when that work entails following the path of your own enthusiasms; Leon and Lim are just exceptionally good at tapping their own ids. This season, their pleasure center took them trekking from a highland music festival of their own imagining to the Argentina that does in fact exist, and the O.C. clothes that resulted from that journey are typically punchy. There's an increasing emphasis on craft in the Opening Ceremony line, witnessed here by flirty raffia dresses and others that are heavily smocked, and in a variety of pieces featuring intricate beading, embroidery, and crochet.
As always, it's possible to see Leon and Lim's inspirations in their clothes, and as always, reading too much into them misses the point. Style magpies par excellence, they're happy to give their collections a "something for everyone" breadth, so that certain themes are interpreted in variously coy, sexy, or sporty ways. The collection's through line is the clothes' kicky details—the cat-shaped eyelet on a top, or the neon trim on a jersey pointelle sweatshirt. Leon and Lim have fun with that stuff, and the fun is contagious. Hence the juggernaut.
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Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear
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10 Crosby Derek Lam 3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Farah Angsana Fashion East Fashion Fringe Felder Felder Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesc by Frank Tell Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gabrielle Greiss Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Giulietta Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Kanye West Karen Walker Kelly Wearstler Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan NAHM Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 Norma Kamali -
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Ohne Titel Opening Ceremony Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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