October 20, 2011 New York
Actually, the drug of choice for Leon and Lim is fun. It's not that hard to sustain a breathtaking work pace when that work entails following the path of your own enthusiasms; Leon and Lim are just exceptionally good at tapping their own ids. This season, their pleasure center took them trekking from a highland music festival of their own imagining to the Argentina that does in fact exist, and the O.C. clothes that resulted from that journey are typically punchy. There's an increasing emphasis on craft in the Opening Ceremony line, witnessed here by flirty raffia dresses and others that are heavily smocked, and in a variety of pieces featuring intricate beading, embroidery, and crochet.
As always, it's possible to see Leon and Lim's inspirations in their clothes, and as always, reading too much into them misses the point. Style magpies par excellence, they're happy to give their collections a "something for everyone" breadth, so that certain themes are interpreted in variously coy, sexy, or sporty ways. The collection's through line is the clothes' kicky details—the cat-shaped eyelet on a top, or the neon trim on a jersey pointelle sweatshirt. Leon and Lim have fun with that stuff, and the fun is contagious. Hence the juggernaut.