September 17, 2011 London
The emphasis was on trousers. Smith sent out three key silhouettes: There was a pair of trim, slightly cropped boyish pants and another tailored style that was wider, high-waisted, and shorter; he also showed a pair of slouchy jogging pants in both burgundy silk and the foulard print that threaded through the collection. The jogging pants looked like no-brainers—chic and cozy all at once, and a nice twist on fashion's present pajama trend—and the boyish trousers looked particularly good in plaid and pop colors such as mustard and electric blue. The third style, wide, high-waisted, and short, came off a touch awkward.
There were winning pieces studded throughout the show: Soft silk pleated skirts with a touch of sheen, an oversize pajama-stripe button-down, a drop-waist dress in the foulard, and a blouse and trousers in a cool smudged floral print. The accessories are also worth noting: Smith has a hit on his hands with this season's super-flat loafers, and a possible cult phenomenon in wood-heel sandals with contrasting bands of color. He also turned out a seriously chic fedora, done in burgundy wool with a pale coral band.