Pedro Lourenço
post a comment ›
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, September 28, 2011
By Meenal Mistry
"No prints," Pedro Lourenço said brightly before his show, thus dashing the hopes of those who loved the silky tropical-motif dresses from his Resort collection. But Lourenço is young and in possession of ideas and skills; a softening of his rigor, no matter how people-pleasing that might be, isn't a priority.In place of palm trees, the 21-year-old Brazilian designer was thinking about a different sort of greenery: eco-architecture and structures built from mixed recycled materials. It's why his graphic collaged bouillabaisse included metallic matelassés and organzas that looked like foil insulation, and the copper-colored zips that unfurled his leather jackets and trimmed the pockets on his cropped pants recalled tubing and wire. A crinkled linen looked like hemp, cutting the industrial feel with a rough-hewn earthiness, even when it was embroidered with a lapful of beaded fringe. (Those wine-cork-soled sandals perhaps took the theme a bit far.) Until now, Lourenço has skewed elegant in his stance, but here his shapes took their cues from street wear and the familiar outlines of leather jackets, cropped pants, and sporty tank dresses—a welcome direction.
If it sounds like there were a lot of moving parts, there were, and the show wasn't without its clunky or overworked moments. Many in the audience saw shades of Nicolas Ghesquière, another designer who just last year kicked around ideas of household products and street couture. But, after a mere four seasons, Lourenço's ambitions are still new and rapidly evolving; seeing where he goes next should make for a good show.
/
/
/
COMMENTS
(0) ADD YOURSwelcome !
logout
you must be logged in to leave a comment sign in | join now
see all designers ›
Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear
#
|
A
|
B
|
C
|
D
|
E
|
F
|
G
|
H
|
I
|
J
|
K
|
L
|
M
|
N
|
O
|
P
|
R
|
S
|
T
|
U
|
V
|
W
|
Y
|
Z
|
-
#
10 Crosby Derek Lam 3.1 Phillip Lim -
A
-
B
-
C
-
D
-
E
Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
F
Farah Angsana Fashion East Fashion Fringe Felder Felder Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesc by Frank Tell Francesco Scognamiglio -
G
Gabriele Colangelo Gabrielle Greiss Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Giulietta Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson Gucci -
H
Haider Ackermann Hakaan Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
I
Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
J
-
K
Kanye West Karen Walker Kelly Wearstler Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
L
L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
M
-
N
Naeem Khan NAHM Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 Norma Kamali -
O
Ohne Titel Opening Ceremony Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
P
-
R
-
S
-
T
-
U
Uniqueness United Bamboo -
V
-
W
Wayne Wendy Nichol Wes Gordon Willow -
Y
Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
Z
Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
ERROR:
