Peter Pilotto
post a comment ›
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, September 19, 2011
By Maya Singer
It was a touch disheartening to read in the Peter Pilotto program notes that designers Christopher De Vos and Peter Pilotto had been inspired by a recent trip to Indonesia. You can't fault designers for being on-trend, but you also couldn't help feeling less than overjoyed at the prospect of another round of tropical prints.And yes, the Pilotto show did include tropical prints. But they were only a part of the larger story told by this collection. De Vos and Pilotto found a fresh way of engaging with the Spring '12 tropical fetish; for one thing, their riff on aquatics and hothouse florals felt lived in, as opposed to merely referential. Take a recurring aquatic print that showed up in various color iterations and suggested the blinkered, surreal, close-up view of the undersea world that comes through a snorkel mask. The collection's florals had a similar immersive feel.
With their scuba suit references and sculpted skirts that looked like they were floating, the Pilotto boys could be accused of over-literalizing. It's true that some of their fitted dresses featuring scale prints were a touch too fishy for comfort, and that the mermaid look that closed the show kind of gilded the lily of their waterworld theme. But what kept the complaints in check, for the most part, was the overriding discipline of this collection—the clothes were sharply cut and sexy and had a sporty mien that made everything feel very modern. The floral jacquards and bright, laser-cut pieces were particularly good. Also worth noting: the shoes. A collaboration with Nicholas Kirkwood, the Perspex-heeled, plastic flower-bedecked Pilotto shoes stand to be a big wish list item this season.
/
/
/
COMMENTS
(0) ADD YOURSwelcome !
logout
you must be logged in to leave a comment sign in | join now
see all designers ›
Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear
#
|
A
|
B
|
C
|
D
|
E
|
F
|
G
|
H
|
I
|
J
|
K
|
L
|
M
|
N
|
O
|
P
|
R
|
S
|
T
|
U
|
V
|
W
|
Y
|
Z
|
-
#
10 Crosby Derek Lam 3.1 Phillip Lim -
A
-
B
-
C
-
D
-
E
Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
F
Farah Angsana Fashion East Fashion Fringe Felder Felder Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesc by Frank Tell Francesco Scognamiglio -
G
Gabriele Colangelo Gabrielle Greiss Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Giulietta Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson Gucci -
H
Haider Ackermann Hakaan Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
I
Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
J
-
K
Kanye West Karen Walker Kelly Wearstler Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
L
L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
M
-
N
Naeem Khan NAHM Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 Norma Kamali -
O
Ohne Titel Opening Ceremony Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
P
-
R
-
S
-
T
-
U
Uniqueness United Bamboo -
V
-
W
Wayne Wendy Nichol Wes Gordon Willow -
Y
Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
Z
Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
ERROR:
