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Peter Som

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NEW YORK, September 9, 2011
By Meenal Mistry
All hail the power of the flower. Even after popping up all over the Resort collections, the ultra-vivid floral shows no sign of wilting. It's certainly what made you sit up and notice today at Peter Som. His photo-real blown-up roses came multicolored and candy-bright (though blessedly not neon) and in a rhapsody of blue. They brought an aughts edge to Som's sixties silhouettes and dolly-bird ethos.

The outlines may be familiar, but it's doubtful that any lunching lady circa 1967 wore something close to a boxy floral tweed shell with a fuchsia eel skirt or Som's terrific little take on the skirtsuit with a photo-print cotton anorak shell and matching skirt. (Ditto those fab chunky Charlotte Olympia loafers.) The sporty jacket is a Som fave, and he did a few here, including a standout pieced from raw denim and houndstooth tweed. Along with retro high-waisted bikinis and stripey poor-boy knits, they gave the proceedings a surfer-y cool. Gidget at La Grenouille.

A dash of black lace, particularly nice on the décolleté of a swingy pleated floral dress, provided a sexy zip that's often missing here. After all, Som's currency is quirk, which can occasionally be cloying. But he hit it on the head with a chic zebra-head print that was cute, not cutesy. Overall, from flora to fauna, this was Som in great form.

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