Reed Krakoff
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NEW YORK, September 14, 2011
By Nicole Phelps
Persistence is beginning to pay off for Reed Krakoff. In his fourth season on the runway, he's pushing into new territory while refining his point of view. First, the news. Krakoff has dabbled in abstract print up until this point, but never anything so vivid as the bird motif he used on a collared, sleeveless shirt-and-wrap-skirt look or again on a T-shirt worn with a pair of mannish trousers. We've been up to our eyeballs in exotic flora and fauna on the Spring runways so far, but there was something sharp and crisp about Krakoff's print despite its appearing on silk.In seasons past, he's leaned too heavily on insubstantial fabrics like the one he used for what he called his "cellophane windbreaker" today. For the better part of the collection, though, he smartly chose materials with some heft and weight, like the bonded cotton of a black and yellow color-blocked trench, or the blush pink double-face wool of a sleeveless top and matching pants. Krakoff is still trying to find his way as a ready-to-wear designer, but it has to be a plus that his approach is so considered. The baseball-style sweaters that popped up on some of the socials in the crowd reappeared on the runway as contrast-sleeve evening dresses, and the wrap skirt he's made his calling card looked fresh in black cotton sateen piped in black.
In the last few months, it seems, Krakoff's accessories have been gaining traction with front-row types. We've seen a lot of his leopard-print flat sandals this week. Spring's winner is a square minaudière in glossy chrome on one side and colorful python on the other.
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Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear
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Gabriele Colangelo Gabrielle Greiss Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Giulietta Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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