September 13, 2011 New York
In seasons past, he's leaned too heavily on insubstantial fabrics like the one he used for what he called his "cellophane windbreaker" today. For the better part of the collection, though, he smartly chose materials with some heft and weight, like the bonded cotton of a black and yellow color-blocked trench, or the blush pink double-face wool of a sleeveless top and matching pants. Krakoff is still trying to find his way as a ready-to-wear designer, but it has to be a plus that his approach is so considered. The baseball-style sweaters that popped up on some of the socials in the crowd reappeared on the runway as contrast-sleeve evening dresses, and the wrap skirt he's made his calling card looked fresh in black cotton sateen piped in black.
In the last few months, it seems, Krakoff's accessories have been gaining traction with front-row types. We've seen a lot of his leopard-print flat sandals this week. Spring's winner is a square minaudière in glossy chrome on one side and colorful python on the other.