September 29, 2011 Paris
Backstage, Mouret explained he was thinking about Picasso, Matisse, and Cocteau's lovers and friends, women who might've been inspired by those artists' work to modify their own clothes. There was nothing amateurish about the way he pulled it off, though. The eyes gave his dresses a vintage-y, collector's-item quality. They weren't retro, which was a relief after seeing so many decade-specific shows in Europe. The designer also had this season's ubiquitous bra tops, but their stretchy techno fabric made the old-fashioned idea look modern. In a season of ladylike collections, they helped give Mouret's a welcome edge.