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PARIS, September 28, 2011
By Nicole Phelps
"Like a journey through the vortex of cinema." That's how Marco Zanini summed up his Spring collection before listing a string of references including sci-fi kitchen-sink dramas, Hitchcock, Tim Burton, and John Waters. "It's very personal," he added. That means it wasn't short on quirkiness. Zanini is a serious designer, but he also has a light heart.His eccentricity was on display first and foremost with the accessories: organza kerchiefs covering chignon-cum-beehives straight out of Mars Attacks, pastel-rimmed cat-eye shades. The shoes were especially good: There were brocade mules, ostrich-skin flatforms, and flower-embroidered sandals with mirrored glass bottoms.
As for the clothes, they situated Zanini within this season's fifties trend. Fabrics like double-face silk duchesse, plissé organza, and cotton piqué had a couture richness. And there was a New Look proportion to shirtdresses and long-sleeve, below-the-knee party frocks embroidered by hand with sequins. When silhouettes were more restrained—such as the simple, slightly egg-shaped coats and V-neck shifts—Zanini unleashed his exuberance with color and print: a pink and white graphic daisy motif, an orange and baby blue check.
The looks that really resonated belonged to the black section in the middle of the show. Zanini made a point of ensuring that the clothes didn't appear flat by mixing fabrics: a lace top over a plissé organza shift, a daisy intarsia knit pullover and a lace skirt. The pieces were elegant and chic—on the right side of that vortex he was talking about.
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Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Farah Angsana Fashion East Fashion Fringe Felder Felder Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesc by Frank Tell Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gabrielle Greiss Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Giulietta Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Kanye West Karen Walker Kelly Wearstler Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan NAHM Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 Norma Kamali -
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Wayne Wendy Nichol Wes Gordon Willow -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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