"Like a journey through the vortex of cinema." That's how Marco Zanini summed up his Spring collection before listing a string of references including sci-fi kitchen-sink dramas, Hitchcock, Tim Burton, and John Waters. "It's very personal," he added. That means it wasn't short on quirkiness. Zanini is a serious designer, but he also has a light heart.

His eccentricity was on display first and foremost with the accessories: organza kerchiefs covering chignon-cum-beehives straight out of Mars Attacks, pastel-rimmed cat-eye shades. The shoes were especially good: There were brocade mules, ostrich-skin flatforms, and flower-embroidered sandals with mirrored glass bottoms.

As for the clothes, they situated Zanini within this season's fifties trend. Fabrics like double-face silk duchesse, plissé organza, and cotton piqué had a couture richness. And there was a New Look proportion to shirtdresses and long-sleeve, below-the-knee party frocks embroidered by hand with sequins. When silhouettes were more restrained—such as the simple, slightly egg-shaped coats and V-neck shifts—Zanini unleashed his exuberance with color and print: a pink and white graphic daisy motif, an orange and baby blue check.

The looks that really resonated belonged to the black section in the middle of the show. Zanini made a point of ensuring that the clothes didn't appear flat by mixing fabrics: a lace top over a plissé organza shift, a daisy intarsia knit pullover and a lace skirt. The pieces were elegant and chic—on the right side of that vortex he was talking about.