Rogan Gregory earned his stripes as a designer trafficking in pretty elemental sportswear—jeans, tees, throw-on knits. Judging by his latest Rogan collection, that reputation is in dire need of an update. For one thing, there's no denim in his Spring '12 women's collection (though he is making jeans for men.) For another, Gregory's take on what constitutes ease in fashion seems to have grown up alongside his customers. There's a more sophisticated design vocabulary at work.

Take, for example, this season's variety of silk noil pieces for women, such as a hooded vest roped through with leather or a simple tunic dress with stitch detail along the hem and collar. Very Gen X Brooklyn bohemian, these—just the kind of thing a girl who used to wear Gregory's jeans to indie rock shows now puts on when she goes to a Carroll Gardens dinner party. The silk noil items owe a debt to the brand Electric Feathers, designed by Gregory's friend Leana Zuniga; for the record, it's one he's repaid in advance, giving Zuniga space in his Bowery Street store. (And anyway, Gregory has translated Zuniga's ideas into his own, more structured idiom.) There's a nice textural quality to these clothes—a rough hand to the knits and a weather-beaten look to other pieces—that Gregory has juxtaposed with his typically fine casual tailoring.

Much the same can be said for the menswear. Gregory tends to defer to traditional menswear silhouettes, but he puts his own stamp on pieces by giving them a worn-in quality. He does this with materials—such as the wrinkled khaki in a field jacket—and with cut: Witness the soft shoulders of his marled henleys and sweaters. Gregory has clearly spent a lot of time fussing with the details here, but the clothes don't feel fussy, and that's their strength. As a designer, he's very attuned to the masculine.