September 08, 2011 New York
The Olsens said their twin inspirations were a Seattle exhibition of Nick Cave's Soundsuits and the country of Tibet. "We wanted everything to float and breathe, or make a sound even," Mary-Kate explained afterward. Tibet came into the picture via the prayer beads slung across the torso of one model and the handmade open-knit sleeves of a sweater. There were echoes of Celine's last Spring collection in the more artisanal bits. As for Mr. Cave? In the stillness of the performance space, the shell buttons densely embellishing a long tank faintly jingled.
Other evening pieces made you sit up and take notice, too—most notably, a voluptuous caftan embroidered with silver and crystal beads at the bodice. That caftan happens to be corseted underneath; no detail goes unattended to here. The workmanship at The Row is exceptional, and the results are as elegant as anything we're bound to see this week.