October 01, 2011 Paris
The focus of Kokosalaki's revived eponymous collection is, as ever, dresses, and despite its short absence, it will look familiar to fans who have always appreciated her way with drape. One little number with a flourish at the neckline was made from a single enormous piece of Lurex-shot linen. The designer used the techy fabric, which was inspired by the work of the artist Henrique Oliveira, for sporty tops and shorts, and a blazer with a narrow, elongated silhouette. But it was the chiffon dresses in delicate pastels that showed off her know-how. Painstakingly designed with double construction—slim on the inside, fluid on the outside—they had a graceful look, not tight or constricting but still body-aware. Kokosalaki will bring the same dressmaker's skills to the capsule wedding gown line she's making for Net-a-Porter.