is at its best when its designers stick to the outerwear and tailoring that are the label's calling cards. Today's show-opening khaki trench gave you a reason to invest with its silvery lapels. A navy tuxedo with black revers was as faultless as the simple tapering trousers it was paired with. And a drawstring waist gave a timely touch of sport to a mint shirtdress. When the creative team makes obvious plays for trendiness, on the other hand, things can get tricky pretty quickly. We've seen Impressionist florals and studs elsewhere in Milan, but together on the runway here they looked like a double miscalculation. Sheer blouses and pants, likewise, made you wonder just how in touch the team is with its customers. That said, there were pieces here that will put Sportmax on women's shopping lists come Spring. A crewneck sweater, slightly oversize with the iridescence of an abalone shell, looked undeniably cool with a lacy pencil skirt.