"Sensuality, luxury, nonchalance, sexual tension." Before her show, Sophie Théallet listed her buzzwords. The first three were familiar ones for her, perennial even. The last, inspired, Théallet said, by the Romy Schneider and Alain Delon film La Piscine, was new.

It was interesting to see Théallet work with this kind of edge. It manifested in subtle ways, like the rib-exposing cutouts on a sweet tulip-print maxi wrapping around to an X back with partially blacked-out straps. A navy satin shirtdress, slit just so, gave the model a bit of swagger, as did one of Théallet's favorite looks with a lean tuxedo jacket. The frisson of push-pull was underscored by happy-hued Mary Janes, given their bite through needle heels and dangerously pointed toes.

But when it comes to what's chic and feels luxurious—and quite French—nonchalance wins the day. It's something Théallet brings to everything from pull-on-and-go trousers—it's only her second season of doing pants—in a very expensive emerald peau de soie to her eveningwear. A deft colorist, she made all those great saturated jewel tones do the hard work. It was lovely on a deceptively simple fuchsia bias-cut gown with contrast emerald straps, a dress to assure you end up on the winning side in a love triangle.