She's never one to make a ruckus, but Tess Giberson is gaining steam. She opened a store on Crosby Street earlier this year, and today staged the first runway show she's done under her own name since 2005. The tightly edited collection of 25 looks more than merited the leap.

The central idea was to play controlled off crafty, with precise yet fluid tailoring as a counterpoint to ethereal webby knits, dreamy organic prints, and crocheted appliqué. Backstage Giberson explained that the collection, called Decollage—the flip side to Fall's Collage—was about a stripping away and things coming apart. Thus the slashed leather tunic and knits made to look as if one false pull could send the whole thing unraveling. On the subtler side, lean blazers were slit high up the back, and slouchy wide pants gave a blink-and-miss-it flash of flesh as they walked by. But Giberson has never let concept trump reality—not even during the artier era of New York fashion in which she launched. And experience has upped her level of sophistication, even as she's retooled her label to a nicer price point. That's certainly something to make a little noise about.