Tommy Hilfiger may need a new word. He called this collection Pop Prep, but as Hilfiger deepens his fashion foothold with help from stylist Karl Templer—listed here as creative consultant/stylist—and designer Peter Som, his collection gets further and further from the vanilla, been-there-worn-it connotation of the Prep word.

The Pop here, meanwhile, meant color. It began with a glen plaid recast in tangerine and turquoise, adorable in a boxy hoodie, and went kaleidoscopic with great multicolored cable knits, one of a few echoes from Hilfiger's men's collection shown earlier this week. It might not be your cup of tea, but you have to smile at—or at least pay attention to—the off and unexpected combination in something like a forest green, purple, and orange striped rugby shirt with contrast sleeves and a periwinkle leather skirt.

The show notes cited sixties shapes, and there were a lot of clean, stand-away silhouettes. But those stiff bonded cottons and leathers are materials quite a few designers have been using of late, and so escaped retro-dom. The precisely cut and luxurious-looking leather shirtdresses and skirtsuits in particular were bang on trend.

Another carryover from men's was an abstract camouflage. Since last season, Hilfiger's runway has become a space for pieces with immediate appeal, but this print lacked that energy.

For evening, the designer leapt a decade to the seventies with color-blocked Halston-esque caftans and jumpsuits, the kind of thing you might see a Courtins-Clarins sister or cousin—all four were front-row—wearing next season.