"I just want to wear that." It was easy to lose count of how many times Savannah Miller (no Sienna in sight) uttered those words as she talked through Twenty8Twelve's Spring collection. On that list: a slouchy chambray playsuit, a soufflé-airy embroidered cotton voile blouse, and nearly anything in one of the abstracted floral and animal motifs she called "non-print prints."

Miller had vague inspirations: YSL's safari chic, Brigitte Bardot as a brunette, and August in Ibiza. They were, by her own admission, less than literal. The first provided utility chic. The Bardot peg, on the other hand, lent a marked cheesecake-y feel, as in a white piqué bustier playsuit and a body-hugging L.B.D. in a stretch cotton seersucker that Miller explained gives you the gain of a corset with no pain. And depending on how you approach the beach, wherever it is: a strapless silk maxi printed with big blooms or a heather jersey tank dress to the ankle with a flaring skirt.

This is the second time that the designer has opted to show by private appointment, and the practicality of it and smart business sense seem to suit her. Well, almost. She looked wistfully at a picture of Jourdan Dunn from the label's first show hanging in her showroom. "I miss the thrill of it," she said. "I remember those shows when I was at McQueen, but the collection would have to become a different thing."