October 18, 2011 London
Goh has developed an interesting signature in dense, bonded materials—his use of them gives even a casual garment like a piqué polo a substantiality as well as a quality of aloofness. Elsewhere, the gazar in the collars of his crisp white button-down and shirtdress makes for a nice, sharpening detail; ditto the waist-less cut of his mannish shorts and trousers. And Goh's collarless jackets and A-line shifts are so well made, it seems churlish to point out that they're a little boring. It takes a lot of confidence for a young designer to risk boredom in pursuit of subtlety; Goh is to be congratulated on his nerve. But his previous collections have shown a bit more flair in terms of color and silhouette; they were quiet yet forceful. At any rate, Goh is one to watch.