The thirties seemed like the one decade we hadn't seen so far for Spring. That changed today with Rodolfo Paglialunga's bright collection for Vionnet. "Everything in life is so hard now, I wanted a return to beauty and elegance," he explained. Those years, of course, were the house founder Madeleine Vionnet's heyday. Paglialunga also just scored a big coup when Madonna wore one of his thirties-inflected bias-cut gowns to the Venice Film Festival. Does he need another reason to reimagine the era?

The influence came across most obviously in the evening dresses: lovely draped columns with trains in painterly floral prints, or a white goddess gown embroidered with bumblebees. The daywear had a sportier spin. Paglialunga has used mountain climber's ropes as accents on necklines and waistbands in the past. Here he looked to field sports, turning baseball jerseys into silk shift dresses with contrast sleeves. Put together with the butterflies, flowers, and stars embellishing everything, it could feel like there was just too much going on. Paglialunga had more success when he kept things simpler: a navy dress whose only sports reference was the elasticized neckline from which it was draped; a cocktail number that was essentially just two light blue squares of fabric sewn together. Madeleine would've approved.