Vivienne Westwood Red Label
September 16, 2011 London
And good on Westwood, too, for exerting some real design discipline this season. There was a clear proposition threading its way through the show, which was to take suiting pieces—jacket, blouse, trousers—and highlight one element by giving it a sculptural dimension, or magnifying its proportion. The idea fared better in some garments than others: A wrapped suit jacket with a draped lapel was very good, whereas a pair of cropped trousers with a seriously low-hanging crotch was a little silly. In general, though, these pieces worked, as did the simplest of Westwood's draped dresses, Grecian-looking silk jersey numbers in black and white, and diaphanous, bias-cut frocks in a rust-tone print. There were other nice looks along the way, as well, and several kooky ones, inevitably. You could argue that Westwood should edit those pieces out, but that would be tantamount to suggesting she have less fun.