Wes Gordon's challenge for Spring: translating his luxe (for him, the best fabrics are the most expensive) aesthetic into something "not too chintzy," he said. The young designer made it work, whipping up a shorts suit of substantial python skin ("It just slithered out at me!") or a heavy, sculpted lace bolero that reminded him of Jean Shrimpton.

Gordon upheld the "spirit of fall tailoring" with a sharp, navy gazar trenchdress, as well as his best-selling high-waisted, wide-leg trousers. But what really stood out here were the flowing eveningwear looks, with "Sofia Coppola wedding gown" high necklines. One came in a Rorschach-style print, and another in a saturated coral silk. It seemed as though everyone in the room today took notice of Gordon's talent—Cathy Horyn chatted up Wes, while a queue of editors and buyers formed behind her.