Willow
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, September 16, 2011
By Maya Singer
The genesis of Kit Willow's latest collection was a snapshot her mother took, of a palm tree at sunset on St. Kilda beach in Melbourne. As inspirations go, this one had the vast potential to degenerate into cheesiness—especially given that she used the photograph as the basis for her collection's sole print. (Visions of "wish you were here" postcards dance in your head.) But the digital palm-print looks weren't bad—they had an unexpected edginess—and anyway, the real action in this collection was in Willow's experiments with fabrication and draping. If an old snapshot set her down the path of hand-weaving seed beads into mesh, then draping rectangles of the resulting material off sexy little numbers, then all to the good.Willow's trick here was to take non-challenging silhouettes—a form-fitting dress, for instance—and give them a textural dimension. The seed-beading did that; so did the soigné, handwoven French tweed that she developed based on the seed-beaded material. She also had the very good, very straightforward idea of draping pieces of tulle off the surface of several looks; the technique gave pieces such as a tailored, electric blue dress a sense of movement, without interfering with the underlying silhouette. Why hasn't anyone thought of this before? All in all, this collection was full of playful, good concepts like that, executed with the right, slightly kittenish touch.
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Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Farah Angsana Fashion East Fashion Fringe Felder Felder Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesc by Frank Tell Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gabrielle Greiss Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Giulietta Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Kanye West Karen Walker Kelly Wearstler Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan NAHM Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 Norma Kamali -
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Wayne Wendy Nichol Wes Gordon Willow -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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