September 08, 2011 New York
There were a few misfires. A pair of wide-leg, orange lambskin trousers, for instance, came off a bit heavy, given both their volume and the weight of the leather. In general, though, the looks were appealing—neat suits and separates in tropical-weight wool gabardine; loose-fitting dresses with fine, geometric topstitched detail; no-brainer collarless coats in bright, pleasing colors; and an easy-feeling group in a vivid yellow-and-black georgette print that should have been obnoxious, but wasn't. And, as noted, Azrouël juiced a lot of the looks with sexiness—to wit, a seemingly dowdy shirtdress, done in semi-sheer lipstick-red crepe de chine, featured come-hither slits up its sides. These kinds of details went a long way toward making this collection pop, and Azrouël was judicious in his use of them. It's no wonder his star is on the rise.