From SoHo to Soho, Y-3's Spring collection waxed Anglophilic in homage to London as host city for next year's Summer Olympics. Appropriately for the sport-to-street-wear label, Yohji Yamamoto and recently installed creative director Dirk Schönberger looked to youth culture for their cues: a blitz of graphic Mod checks, punk tartans, and Union Jacks merged with Yohji World. What's interesting is how suitable this marriage is. To wit: Those witchy romantic Yamamoto hallmarks like the morning coats and voluminous bustled skirts work as dark English Victoriana filtered through the Japanese avant-garde. This layering and conflating of British sartorial history was given bounce by its ultimate athletic reason for being. For women, it was snaking Yohji ruffles done as a basketball jersey and shorts, or a tartan half-kilt and blouson hoodie. There was lots of cutaway and convertible in all those shrouding black jackets, skirts, and dresses—it was the designer's poetry in motion. For the men it was slightly more basic, with nylon and leather bombers layered over tartan tees and rolled pants or sweats cut with the slightest drop in the crotch. A Carnaby Street checked suit was served pretty much straight up. What you noticed more was the clever and rather chic track jacket-cum-trenchcoat. Sometimes the mix yields magic.