January 23, 2013 Paris
Saab seduced Hollywood years ago. The fashion crowd has taken longer to come around. Insiders saw shades of other designers in his dresses today—floor-skimming capes that called to mind Gwyneth Paltrow's white Tom Ford from last year's Academy Awards, demure necklines and long sleeves evocative of recent Valentino collections.
What was signature Saab, of course, was the beadwork, this time rendered in tone-on-tone or silvery embroideries on lace and tulle of varying transparencies. An Ode to Delicateness, he called the collection, and, indeed, with illusion necklines and sheer sleeves, his creations at times seemed to float on the body. Saab used mostly pastels, with a touch of red and black. He's always favored solid colors; prints have proven tricky for him. This time, though, a subtle multicolor floral over-embroidered in black beads produced the most charming dresses, especially a three-quarter-sleeve, full-skirted party number. It's not Oscars material, but it was a knockout.