June 24, 2012 Milan
It wasn't just that the designer cut his unlined jacket in cherry red. It was that he showed it with a bathing suit, too. Model Arthur Kulkov was cycling around in a dinner jacket of deep plum. Several models were wearing specs from Brioni's new sunglasses collection (optical to come), and several had on sneakers, too. Even where the past was referenced, as in a lapel-less wool crepe hopsack cardigan jacket based on a piece from the sixties, it was slimmed and shaped to forestall fustiness.
Brioni's far from the only heritage label looking to sell to youth. But according to brand reps, its boldest items are moving from stores with its older and younger customers alike. That's reassuring, for fans as well as for PPR, the luxury conglomerate, which finalized its acquisition of the line at the beginning of this year.