Comme des Garçons
June 28, 2012 Paris
Besides, light was the very opposite of the heavy-metal that riffed on the soundtrack. Black Sabbath's "Iron Man" churned while the models stepped over a metal frame laid on the floor like a lighting rig waiting to be raised. A spine of metal studs ran down their backs, and, as has been noted, their heads were crowned with metal, plus a fierily fake mop of hair. All of which might be construed as a musical idol subtext, with the straw men of rock making a poor substitute for the kings who once ruled us.
Setting aside such random speculation, what was irrefutable was the designer Rei Kawakubo's gift for making us question everything we hold familiar. The poor king's coats ranged from the traditional elegance of a frock coat, to a biker jacket cut from terrycloth and elongated to mid-calf, to an Oriental frog-closed coat-jacket, to a double-breasted velvet floor-sweeper that wouldn't have looked out of place in King Ludwig's court. In other words, a broad continuum of radically different times and places. Same with the pajama patterns: stripes, tartan, camo, animalia, glam-rock gold, each of them offering its own playful perspective on masculinity.