June 22, 2012
David Bowie had pride of place on Ennio Capasa's mood board. The designer called his Spring collection New Wave Safari, tipping his hat to "African Night Flight," Bowie's song—from 1979's Lodger—about a trip from London to Mombasa. Those two cities made up the breakdown of the Spring collection. Mombasa was represented by forays into the Saharienne, neck scarves, and slightly swashbuckling side-buckle pants. It was, on the whole, more successful than the London section, of tailored pieces playing off New Wave volumes. Bowie's glamorous spirit continues to be conjured by designers of every stripe; in only one day of Milan shows, it's been specifically incarnated twice. It begs the question, how many more rubs of genie's bottle before he refuses to answer?