June 16, 2012 London
But the most exciting development this time around was the increased emphasis placed on new tailoring, from the more traditional single-breasted mac to a fine casual cotton suit jacket. They're two of the styles whose patterns were developed directly off of a surplus parachute. (Those crafted of parachute silk will be available as limited editions; those made in recycled fabrics based on the original patterns will be more widely available.) "I'm really proud of that part of the collection," Raeburn said backstage after the show. "It's one way we can start to develop the design process." From the customer standpoint, there was just as much reason to be excited about the new colorblocked jersey polos (one with a macabrely hilarious print of dead critters, in reference to the —literally—stuffed animal Raeburn creates every season; this season's was the owl) and recycled-cotton shirting. Growth is happening. That it can be hard to register on a runway may be argument for a different presentation format next time around.