Christopher Raeburn's label is the very embodiment of make do and mend. He's long focused as much or more attention on the means of his production as on the end result, and his perspicacity in sourcing deadstock materials and surplus fabrics has put him in a class nearly all his own. The downside has been that that class doesn't leave room for rapid evolution, but even that may be beginning to change. Raeburn's line is now outerwear focused—having begun as outerwear only—and the military-inspired parkas with which he began it are still very much in evidence here. (This season, they can boast insets of mesh.)

But the most exciting development this time around was the increased emphasis placed on new tailoring, from the more traditional single-breasted mac to a fine casual cotton suit jacket. They're two of the styles whose patterns were developed directly off of a surplus parachute. (Those crafted of parachute silk will be available as limited editions; those made in recycled fabrics based on the original patterns will be more widely available.) "I'm really proud of that part of the collection," Raeburn said backstage after the show. "It's one way we can start to develop the design process." From the customer standpoint, there was just as much reason to be excited about the new colorblocked jersey polos (one with a macabrely hilarious print of dead critters, in reference to the —literally—stuffed animal Raeburn creates every season; this season's was the owl) and recycled-cotton shirting. Growth is happening. That it can be hard to register on a runway may be argument for a different presentation format next time around.