Damir Doma's collections often have a priestly air. He's been accused of having a one-track mind: sect, not sex. There's some justice to these claims. But Doma used this, his tenth menswear collection, to push forward. "I wanted to do something very light, very confident," he said. "It's about finding a new perspective for my work, getting away from my comfort zone."
Suddenly, there was color where there used to be only black and gray. (A sweater blocked in primary shades was positively a shock.) Doma said he'd envisioned his outfits, with their giant pockets and newspaper straps, as providing in single looks everything a guy would need for a day at the beach. The beach? When pressed, the designer admitted he's not much for the place himself.
More traditional elements of menswear infiltrated his work than ever before. Perfecto jackets made an appearance; so did a three-button suit. He experimented with denim for the first time with his baggy, carrot-shaped trousers.
Acolytes of his former darkness will find plenty to sate their needs. Long, pleated bermudas fit the bill, as well as leather-sleeved knits and paneled pants. As with any new venture, there were risks that didn't pay off, in addition to rewards. The balance inclined a bit to the former. But as his well-attended show attests, Doma has solidified his place on the Paris schedule, not to mention his place on the Paris street: His first boutique, on Faubourg Saint-Honoré, opened two weeks ago.
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