The opening salvo at Diesel Black Gold
was a model with a scrolling neck tattoo, but it proved a red herring of sorts. There was still attitude at Renzo Rosso's designer label—where the man himself was on hand, with Adrien Brody at his side, to observe—but this season, there was a new sense of polish. The military bent of the show's first looks, which featured army colors of olive and khaki, aviators, and an appealing little quilted jacket, quickly gave way to something more dandyish. An abstracted, geometric floral motif was the season's big story, and it appeared on tonal suiting, cut into leather jackets, embroidered onto shirts, and even wound into an evening scarf. What's good for the gander is good for the goose, it turns out: Bianca Balti made a guest appearance on the runway, wearing a leather jacket etched with the motif.