The porkpie hats perched on the models' heads at Iceberg
were a clue to one of its free-floating inspirations. "We had a look to New Orleans, to the atmosphere of black music, jazz and soul," said designer Paolo Gerani backstage. "Even the color, the joy of life typical of there." The geometric knits that opened the show let out a trumpet blast of orange and blue. It was largely calmed by the sea's worth of marine blue to follow, and the soft wornness of the clothes and knits. Gerani pointed to the overdyeing, which lent everything a weathered feel, but there were also tea-stain-seeming prints and looser silhouettes to complement the mood. Of note were the ultralight, unstructured graphic suits that brought up the rear. They pointed to a certain cultural overlap otherwise unobserved: New Orleans may be only place on earth as swampy in midsummer as Milan.