J.Lindeberg has never left—its Spring Street store never shut its doors, and it has been joined by outposts in L.A. and Miami, with others set to follow in the U.S., Europe, and China—but the label's ambitions have waxed and waned. They're on the rise again. After a few years of staying its previously charted course, Lindeberg brass decided to up the label's quality, reemphasize fashion, and come back to the fashion weeks of the world. Plural. The company showed design director Jessy Heuvelink's collection first on the runway during Stockholm fashion week (the line's home base), flew a selection of it to New York for a presentation here, and will ship the whole lot to Shanghai in the coming weeks for another outing. "We want to really establish ourselves as a Scandinavian fashion house," CEO Stefan Engström said. If you want to join the big boys, you've gotta play like the big boys. J.Lindeberg is certainly demonstrating an inclination to start.

The collection on show was inspired by the idea of "Sweden from above"—the view of the Scandinavian landscape as seen by air. That meant geometric lines, expanses of tone-on-tone color, and a palette that ranged from water blues to sandy taupes, with a flash of bright orange for good measure. Sweden from above meshed with a laid-back motorcycle vibe. J.Lindeberg's biker jackets came in nylon lined in Aertex and were shown both on their own and styled under suit jackets. Tailoring, company brass said, has become an increasing part of the Lindeberg business, from entry-level, unstructured items that begin at less than $800 for a full suit to fully constructed options in Loro Piana fabrics. They're cut trim and high, double-breasted as often as not. If that doesn't necessarily set them apart from much of their competition, it does put them solidly in lockstep with it. Which should make the collection competitive when the line, which has only been sold at its own stores for the past years, arrives at Ron Herman, Scoop, and Confederacy this spring.