June 15, 2012 London
It didn't feel accidental that many of those shirts had their arms cut off, the better to spotlight a powerful shoulder. They were shown with the full-legged Bermuda shorts he introduced as his dominant silhouette this season. Those shorts had pleats and panels so extreme they extended up all the way to become belt loops, so that they hung off Long's belts like curtains on their rods. They'll be a challenge for everyday wear, but on the runway—flapping open and shut as the models stomped, a literal face-off between the line and the curve—they looked ready for battle. This is warrior dressing, and not of the corporate raider variety. Not for nothing was the show's inspiration and soundtrack Alan Vega's Kung Foo Cowboy. Vega's brand of enervated aggression suits Long well. "I've done this more on instinct," he said of Spring, rushed ahead to make the new London menswear week's earlier deadlines. "Maybe that's why it's dark." Rich, too.