June 28, 2012
The impressionistic image of a city skyline on the invitation looked like it might have been taken from a park—Hyde Park, perhaps. Or was that just the London mood that was cued by Beatles tracks on the soundtrack—gentle, summery songs like "Blackbird" and "Here Comes the Sun"? They were the musical match for a slightly earnest, sweetly urban collection from Junya. He said he wanted to move away from structure, but the collection he showed today didn't move so far away that it wouldn't make young guys feel like sharp-dressed men. And when his models doffed their jackets to stroll the catwalk one more time, it actually felt like Junya wanted us to focus on the structure—or at least the interiors—of the jackets he'd designed. There certainly seemed to be an awful lot going on inside, with collaged linings and some interesting seaming. There was a shadow of bespoke here, which felt like another London reference. And pick any outfit—a windowpane check suit over a floral Liberty-print shirt, a high-closing double-breasted with elongated Bermudas, the floppy-posh-boy feel of the pale blues and pinks—to get still more.