June 29, 2012 Paris
The result felt more fully realized as an entity unto itself—and as a complement to the women's collection—than the debut show last season. It's no surprise that Leon and Lim, finely calibrated as they are to the new and the next, touched on the fabrics of the season (cotton canvas, silk) as well as its new shapes (boxy bermuda shorts, wider trousers). Leon merely shrugged that you'd need the breathability they offered hacking your way through the jungle. But the jungle is inspiration, not destination. You wouldn't wear the abstracted animal prints the duo debuted (tiger stripe, leopard) to attract a big cat. Big game on the city streets, maybe. Between those pants, those prints, the trendy tailoring, and the signature sweatshirts (embroidered tiger-face front, har-har tiger-tail back), there was enough spirited sportswear to do plenty of attracting, which, in turn, should bring Kenzo back into the conversation, and the Jungle Jap spirit to a new generation. You have to imagine that's just what Kenzo's owners at LVMH were hoping for.