"Every guy needs his white T-shirt," said Kris Van Assche
, who offered a show's worth of variations on the theme. "The whiteT-shirt is the real thing. It's one of those basics that's undeniably sexy." Van Assche's tees were either sport/tailored mashups, as in the collared shirts with T-shirt backs, or bits of trompe l'oeil sleight of hand, like one-pieces made to resemble layers of shirt and tailored jacket. The hazard of riffing on a basic, however, is that the results can look rather basic. Worn with pleated shorts or jeans, or outerwear given shape by gathered backs, the looks rarely rose above the day-to-day. Some tricky bits aside, that made for an unusually wearable collection. But its focus felt ultimately like a hindrance.