Les Hommes' designing partners, Tom Notte and Bart Vandebosch, were thinking about the moment when today meets tradition. So far, so good. Their Spring collection repatriated the tuxedo to the closets of the young and fabulous—with, naturally, a twist, which is where things took a turn. Their efforts to age down a staple gave the lot a camp factor that didn't telegraph elegance, their stated theme. Cases for the cummerbund included pairing one with a tank top or shorts. Overruled. As they coasted away from the formal, their collection picked up steam. There were good specimens among the shirting and the sporty suiting, but a clearer edit would've brought them more to light.