Navy camp goes back to the Village People and beyond, and it's a natural fit for the blend of sport and smirk Thom Browne brews at Gamme Bleu. The sweltering Milanese heat didn't stop a line of dancers in custom Browne-ified sailor suits (spare no expense!) from tapping their way through the Charleston routine from The Artist under a banner of semaphore flags. Kelly and Sinatra would've been proud. Milan, Milan—it's a helluva town!

The collection itself drew on sailing, the latest of Thom's athletic ferments. Though he confessed backstage that he's an indifferent sailor, the theme inspired an appealing collection. Maybe it was that he didn't belabor the point. Yes, there were the usual showmanly flourishes, like the sail cloth spinnaker clipped to Arthur Kulkov's evening look and a buckle-backed knit dress that looked like something you'd sooner find at Browne's namesake line. But if being on the briny inspired the rain slicker parkas and blazers, the net-mesh details at gussets and pant stripes, and the penny loafer espadrilles, it's a trip to take. There seemed a skip in Thom's step as he came out after the sailors' closing dance to take his bow. If only it had been a tap.