June 22, 2012 Milan
Guys and sport go hand in hand—at least according to a certain logic—and there was a strong athletic bent to the collection, with its varsity jackets, baseball jerseys, basketball shorts, and gym-class sweatshirts in cocooning neoprene. That also meant it skewed young. But picked apart, there was plenty for an older crowd—say, a designer customer base—to pick up. Barrett's obsessiveness pays dividends. His take on a regatta stripe is a case in point. He wove a version of it in fabric, then photographed and digitized it to create a print. Not happy stopping there, he sent the lot to a couture fabric mill (he won't say which) to weave into a degradé jacquard. Up close, it looked like it had been scratched by claws. "It has to be a bit fucked up," Barrett said. Tough talk. But the gray skies withheld rain until the moment the last look left the open-air runway. There's no surefire key to the will of the gods, but it's hard not to read something into that.