June 16, 2012 London
A collaboration with Sunspel, the heritage English underwear label, gave rise to under-turned-outerwear hybrids: elasticated pants in boxer short fabrics and prints, nylon-treated undershorts worn with tops tucked into their waistbands. Those may work better on the editorial page than the boardwalk (and, on the subject of seaside readiness, a beachy season seemed an odd time to collaborate with Tricker's on classic brogues). Better here were the simpler tailored pieces, slim-cut slacks and light jackets in oceanic blue. Among the explicitly Brighton-referencing ideas (deck chair stripes, woven shorts modeled on woven wicker laundry hampers), printed pieces based on the Royal Pavilion's decor were best. A bon mot of Laurence Olivier's gave the collection its epigraph: "Do you know what success smells like? It smells like Brighton." It dared you to wonder whether the converse is true.